I summarized today in my journal by writing, “Climbed Muir Pass today. It was like Antarctica.   Miles of snow, rockclimbing and routefinding.”

Well, we headed out at 5:30 am from our nice campsite by Palisade Creek.   Bill and I both slept very well, but we were still tired because it’s just plain been killer hiking for several days, and Bill was still battling some sort of giardiaish bug.  And I have a really bad sunburn from the snow, so I resolved today to wear my black mosquito headnet whenever we are hiking across snowfields! 

 The day’s hiking began with a long and beautiful climb up alongside the Middle Fork of the Kings River, which roared so loudly we had to shout in order to talk. The trail was constantly either wet, muddy, or crossed by little snowmelt creeks.  But oh, wow, the scenery!  Spectacular cliffs, snowy mountains!   Supremely Sierra!  Big Pete Meadow was actually a lake, the river was so high.  I don’t know how the “I wear Crocs for stream crossings” people ever manage here in the Sierras in early season.  The trail itself was a boggy creek.  But the meadows were so pretty!

 It’s a long, determined climb up to Muir Pass and its accompanying lakes.  By noon, Bill and I were both wiped out and spent most of our lunch break just lying down.  Now I was a bit worried about ME–I was starting to feel sick, giardia-style, and could not face eating anything much.  Neither could Bill.  I did not tell Bill I was feeling sick, because I did not want him to worry.  I just told him I was awfully tired, which was true.

Continuing on, we met a young couple sitting by the trail, debating whether to go on, or not.  Since it was now afternoon, they were worried about postholing problems in the miles of snow just up ahead.  We left them still debating, and pushed on.  Soon the snow became more and more of a factor until by treeline, everything was solid snow and we were back to just guessing where the trail went.  However, there was a pretty good “footprint trail” to follow, which did what I call “island-hopping”, because it went from one big rock to the next instead of just going straight up.  I was very pleased because I felt I was getting better at hiking on snow.  But at the same time, I was concerned because I was feeling increasingly ill. 

When we reached Helen Lake, we found it completely frozen over and shortly after that we came to a point where we had to decide which way to go. Tracks led 2 totally different ways. It was after 6:00pm and getting cold— the snow was starting to “ice up”. Bill and I were totally worn out.  Neither of us had been able to eat much all day.  I thought Bill would know exactly where to go, because he has hiked this pass before so many times, but it turned out that he had no clue.  We got out our maps, looked at landmarks, looked at the two radically different footprint trails, and started out again.  Just after we started out, the snow collapsed under me and I ended up in a MAJOR posthole, with BOTH my feet completely iced in.  I was so tired and and so ill that I did cry for a minute before taking off my pack and digging myself out.  It took about 20 or 30 minutes. 

The delay gave Bill time to make a decision about where to go,  which involved another “straightup” climb up a pretty steep face. I was so tired that I sort of cried again as I set out after him, and sort of “snuffled” my way along for awhile as we started up. The wind was blowing and it was very cold.  The snow was really icing up now, but still do-able.  Bill was quickly far ahead and eventually I couldn’t see him anymore. It was just me ‘n my ice axe and much prayer for strength and courage to “make the top”.   Then I heard a faint shout from Bill.  I couldn’t make out what he was saying (Turned out he was yelling, “The Hut!  The Hut!”)  Finally the snow stopped going up— it rounded off, and to my joy and delight, there was Muir Hut, glowing golden in the evening light.

There was no way to go on–miles of uninterrupted snow lay ahead.  When I stepped inside the Hut, I cheered!   It was warm and cozy!  The sun had been shining on it all day, and the stone had soaked up all that nice heat!  Oh man, it felt wonderful!  We laid out our sleeping bags on the stone ledges inside, then went outside to fire up our little alcohol stove to make some hot beef broth to drink.  Neither of us could face eating anything, but we agreed a hot drink would be wonderful.  I was just in the middle of doing the beef broth, when along came  two young men, brothers hiking together. They told us they did Mather Pass this morning, and here they were at Muir already!   Way to go!  They told us they were on a tear to reach Mammoth in time for 4th of July.  So we all slept in Muir Hut tonight, very comfortable and warm,  with a lovely sunset.  I felt so blessed!

Walk to Lórien: Arrive at Balin’s tomb in Moria and are attacked by Orcs and a Cave Troll

Tags: Helen Lake, Kings River, Muir Hut, Muir Pass