Since it wasn’t very far to Steven’s Pass, and we weren’t due to meet the Manns till later in the morning, we “lazed in bed” till 6:00 am before eating breakfast.  It was barely starting to get light, and we didn’t rush it munching our granola, and then took our time with packing up and heading out.  The trail continued to be very, very muddy, so just as yesterday, we spent a lot of time hiking the EDGES of the trail.  (Seemed like “on trail” hiking and “edge-hiking” were about equal in terms of how many miles of each!)  There were also several rocky stretches as we climbed up and up to the top of the ski chair lifts and through a powerline clearcut. 

It was a great relief to finally head downhill to Steven’s Pass ski area.  The resort looked very well-kept, and it had expanded quite a bit since we last saw it in 2005.  Then, hooray!  Down near the road, there was a hiker cache!  It was a cooler with Pepsi and big, juicy carrots.  Great snack!  We strolled over to where we were to meet the Manns, munching carrots and sipping Pepsi.   While we were waiting,  a couple of retired Navy guys came by and stopped for a chat.  They are exploring the USA via Amtrak and rented cars, and are having a great time!  They are planning to head for Canada next.   Hmmmm–so are we!   But most important, they filled us in on the situation in Skykomish, and it didn’t sound very good.   The whole town is a Superfund cleanup site, and everything is a mess right now.   The only place that’s open where you can eat is the tavern, and the deli and the convenience store.    Oh well–we will just have to make the best of it.

Shortly afterwards, the Manns arrived, with their adorable dachshunds and lots of fresh fruit, which we devoured during the ride down to Skykomish.  What was left of the town had a number of thruhikers hanging about.  They said there were a few rooms available at the Cascade Inn, but we wanted to get back to the trail.    It was a cloudy, chilly day, with rain threatening, so we really savored the platefuls of chili dogs ‘n all the fixings we got at the Whistlestop Tavern.  We also went to the gas station convenience store to get more food to add to our packs. I was very happy to find everything I needed, even in such a small store!   We loaded our packs (yum, bulging with good food!) filled our Platypuses at the deli, and the Manns took us back up to the PCT.  I was very encouraged by Lucy Mann’s comments about the Suiattle River crossing.  “It’s a good solid log there,” she said.  “My balance is terrible, so I crawled across, but I made it just fine.” 

We set off under a very gray sky, and enjoyed the mostly level walk where the trail follows an old road.  Pretty soon it was back to uphill, but an uphill that went through forests with huge mossy rocks and occasional meadows. No views, though–the clouds were low, and then it started to rain.  We caught up with Colter, then with Happy Camper & Trashbucket when they stopped for a break, and we met a number of dayhikers scurrying back to their cars because of the rain.  

HC and TB told us about a thruhiker couple who had walked all the way from Campo, then quit at Snoqualmie Pass because the night before they reached the Pass, they’d camped in what they thought was a nice protected spot, and woke up in the night to find themselves in the middle of a large puddle.  All their gear got soaked.  Apparently that “was it”.  They decided they couldn’t take it anymore and were making arrangements to go home.  HC and TB said they tried to persuade them to go on, but the couple would not even discuss it.  “We’ve had enough of cold and rain,” they said.  “We’ll come back next summer and finish.”

HC, TB, Bill and I all agreed that day after day of cold and rain is NOT fun, and we are all counting down the days to when we reach Canada.  Having bad weather for so long is really wearing on our ability to be cheerful and enjoy the hike, but we are trying!  Mostly, though, it’s become an endurance slog and a determination challenge.  BUT–the weather forecast is for slowly improving conditions, and both the Manns and the Dinsmores (who are trail angels near Skykomish) say things always get drier and sunnier as the trail gets nearer to Stehekin, since that’s on the east side of the Cascades, rather than the wet west side.   So maybe things will get better.

Not too far along from there, we had an “Awwwwww!” moment.  A little flock of very wet, bedraggled grouse were huddled in the middle of the trail.  It looked like a mama and three almost-grown chicks.  Instead of the usual protocol of diving into the bushes,  the grouse family began to run down the trail ahead of us.  We kept hiking, and they kept running ahead of us, never veering off the trail, for quite awhile.  I felt sorry for them–it was raining and cold and they looked so miserable and so freaked out by us being there.  Finally they turned off and disappeared into the mists and cloud that surrounded us.

From hiking here in 2005, I knew that the views from the trail were spectacular, but  all we could see was the dead remains of wildflower plants (a few still with flowers, but obviously just about “done”) and the bushes/trees were just beginning to show some fall color.  The trail itself was very wet, but hooray–no deep mud like we had to deal with yesterday!  We also agreed that we are very glad it is not snowing. 

However, given the weather conditions (cold, rainy and windy), and the fact that the trail was continually either contouring on a steep mountainside OR else the only flat spots were mini-lakes in very alpine areas,  we decided to start seriously looking for a campsite at the early hour of 6:30 pm.  I did not want to run the risk of having to frantically hunt for a place with the sun going down.   6:30 came and went, and it was another half hour of hiking before we finally spotted a little flat spot under some trees–and it was already occupied by Colter, setting up his tent.  However, he very hospitably agreed to let us squeeze our tarp in next to him.  “I think we can manage if we’re careful not to trip over each other’s tent cords,” was his comment.  And best of all, there was a little place right by one of the tree trunks where the ground was actually DRY!  We all stowed our packs there.

After we’d gotten set for the night, the rain stopped.  But we are IN the clouds and it was still very wet.  I think we are about a half mile from Grizzly Peak, but I am not sure.    It was nice to have Colter’s company, and tomorrow’s weather report says the rain may stop for a couple of days.  Hope so!