Down in the Grider Creek canyon, it’s really the deep dark woods–so dark that we waited till 5:30 to get up.  We took off along the trail as soon as it was light enough to see– and it is worth seeing. The canyon walls are high and steep.  Often the creek is running along below cliffs, cascading over the rocks.  The creek water looks so clear and pure–and it sort of sings to itself as it goes rushing along.  Overhanging everything are the huge trees, and the ground is covered with greenery of all sorts.

Eventually we reached the campground and passed a couple of bicycle campers just getting up.  We didn’t have to wonder for long where Croatian, Tangent, etc. were–tracks on the dirt road toward town showed that they were just ahead of us.  Bill stopped to use the restroom at the campground, and I just kept going, figuring he would catch up with me.  But the first person to come along from behind wasn’t Bill–it was Ann.  We walked along and talked a bit.  I told her that we’d managed 30 miles yesterday, and she commented, “I did 40 miles.  That was easy trail.”  Turned out that 30 mile days are commonplace for her.  I can well believe it!  She always walks very intensely, as if she were “on a mission.”  Ann soon took off and disappeared around a bend. 

It was shaping up to be a hot day, so I was walking at a leisurely pace, wondering where Bill was.  When I reached the Klamath River, I stopped to take a picture of it,  when Bill came along, and we decided to stop for a Snickers break.  We discussed the puzzle of why there were so many “No Monument!” signs in front of houses along the way.   What “monument”?  When we reached Hwy 96, it was very busy, so we had to be careful as we walked the road shoulder toward town.  When we reached the Klamath River bridge, I had a brief terrifying moment.  Bill was out ahead of me and by the time I was halfway across the bridge, he was almost all the way across.  Along came a great big truck.  The driver saw Bill, swung out a bit to avoid him, then swung back in and was headed straight AT me!  I flattened myself against the railing, and the truck missed me by a space that was way too small for comfort!  Yikes!

It was great to reach the Seiad Cafe at last.  Several packs were outside, leaning against the wall, and the place was full of hungry hikers.  Nobody has won the pancake Challenge yet this year–4 out of the 5 pancakes is the record so far.  Bill and I went for huge omelets and potato pancakes, accompanied by fruit shakes.   I asked the folks at the Cafe what all the “No Monument” signs were about.  Turns out that the Feds want to turn the whole valley into a wildlife national monument and get rid of the people.   We were horrified.  I’d like to get on a soapbox and say what I think about it!

I picked up our resupply box and went to the hiker tables next to the cafe to sort everything out and load our packs.  The two bicycle guys were there hanging out with their pet KITTEN!  All the hikers were having a great time petting it and playing with it.  Ann was there, and she gave me her leftover Nutella.  I also bought more food at the store.  The distances between resupplies in Oregon are relatively short, so I am pushing up the food weight in an effort to get more calories. 

Then we went next door to the RV park, where they have set up a wonderful “hiker zone” which includes a whole area in the shade, covered with soft hay. Ahh! Comfort! You just role out your Ridgerest and take a nap!   There was also a refrigerator, table & chairs, and a DVD player.  I just plain lay down and collapsed for awhile.  Bill went back to the Cafe for lunch, but I just could not face eating any more–I was still stuffed from breakfast.   All the other hikers were also lying around resting.  They planned to push on at 5 pm, when it was cooler.  But around 2:30, a breeze sprang up, and Bill  & I decided to head out. 

It’s an 11 mile climb out of Seiad Valley, and it was a hot afternoon, but the views were incredible, and the trail itself is quite varied, as it winds in and out of  Lower, then Middle, then Upper Devil’s Peak.  The Klamath River at first looks like a scenic blue river, then as you climb higher and higher, it becomes more like a silver ribbon far below, wandering toward the sea.  We were carrying a ton of water, because in 2005 we hadn’t been able to find the spring that’s located partway up the climb.  This time, the side trail to the spring was well marked, so we took a break there and enjoyed drinking plenty of cold “bug juice” (Crystallite mixed with Emergen-C). 

The trail is constantly climbing and traversing on steep mountainsides, but we were not worried about finding a campsite, since we were up here in 2005, and knew that there was a reasonably flat zone up ahead, on a saddle, not too far from the top of the climb.  Sure enough, by just after 7 pm, we made it, and managed to squeeze in between the bushes with a wonderful view out towards the south.  It’s a clear night, with a nice (though chilly) breeze.  Oregon tomorrow!

Walk with Aragorn to Isengard: In green valley with lots of streams. Huorns are sighted.

We tiptoed around, being as quiet as we could while packing up this morning, so we wouldn’t bother Blue Butterfly.  The sky was full of clouds– all kinds of clouds– all very pretty but a bit worrisome to hikers. “Will it rain? Or will it just make today cooler?” (Turned out in the end that the lovely clouds made a great, comfortable hiking day!)   The sunrise was very red,  and lit up Mt. Shasta, which is now very definitely BEHIND us.  

It didn’t take us long to reach the PCT alternate route, which was developed because the “real” PCT crosses the north face of a mountain, and was snowbound for so much of the year that horses could not get through.   We chose the alternate, and stopped for breakfast near the top of the climb.  Far below us was a little encampment of other thruhikers who were just starting to get up.  All around us were mountains in all sorts of shapes–pyramids, blocks, and just plain “pointy.”  As we descended down a brief north face, we did have the “fun” of getting around a nice big snowfield.   I think that when trail routes are being planned, north sides of things should be avoided as much as possible.  In the Sierras, this was true as well.  South sides of mountains and passes were often clear, while north sides were deep in snow.  It was pretty frustrating to be struggling through snow while looking across at nice plain dirt!

The rest of the morning I felt as if we were wading through wildflowers– they were waist high and gorgeous.  We contoured around the bases of mountains of marble and peered into marble “wells” and caves. The old ranger cabin midway had a brand new, shiny stovepipe. Nice!  The trail contours high above some very pretty lakes, but only comes close to one of them, which is called Paradise Lake.  Up behind it is a dramatic rock formation called King’s Castle.  I understand now why rock climbers like to come here to the Marble Mountains! 

We met some SOBO ladies–the same ladies we’d met hiking SOBO north of Silverwood Lake!  One of them was hiking with her little dog which was carrying its own cute little pack.  Awwwww!  They said they’d met Babysteps and Flashback, who told them “White Beard is coming!”  so they were expecting us.  Turns out that we are becoming a bit of a legend on the PCT this year, a part of the “elite” group of hikers who have not flipped or flopped, but went straight through, AND we are in the “Geezer Three” of the oldest thruhikers on the trail.

The trail makes a pretty steady climb up to around 7,000 feet, so we were very glad to finally reach the long traverse–miles and miles of easy going across green meadows and through forests.  We did have to be careful of our water, though.  Rain that falls here in the Marbles just percolates right into the ground.  There are very few springs or creeks.

Finally came the long down-hill to Grider Creek, and we began to “fly”– it was nice easy trail, very green and shady.  At a road crossing we caught up with Croatian, Not a Chance and Tangent again.  They were busy eating, so we joined them!  I have been eating Nutella by the spoonful every chance I get (hey, it’s 100 calories per tablespoon!) and it is really helping.  I was able to chug right on up the climb this morning, and the downhill to Grider has been actually fun!  Croatian, etc. were determined to camp tonight at the campground, even if it meant hiking by headlamp. 

Bill and I were not so ambitious–we figured on making it to the first bridge across Grider Creek before stopping for the day.  But bummer–there were no flat places by the bridge!  The guidebook said there were campsites at the next bridge, 1.3 miles away, so we pushed on.  Well, the guidebook was wrong.  There were no campsites or flat ground of any kind.  By this time, we were both really tired, and the sun was going down.  So I went into what I call “Hike while looking for a campsite” mode, and it worked!  Up above the trail, to the left, I spotted what might, just maybe, be a little “shelf” of land.  I told Bill to wait while I had a look, and hooray!  There was just enough room for a cowboy camp, on ground covered with soft, cushy leaves!

When I figured out our mileage, I cheered.  We did just a bit over 30 miles!  And here we are with a nice camp in a beautiful forest, with the creek rushing along nearby.  And I am feeling so much better.  Being able to rest in Etna and being blessed by the love and prayers of other believers really was a help…and Nutella rocks!

Walk with Aragorn to Isengard: Enter meadows crossed with many streams of the Isen

Last night I read for awhile before turning out the light, and it was a fascinating little book about 2,100 Jewish people who were saved from the Holocaust by escaping through Russia, then China and Japan.  What a story–it added to my “collection” of stories to tell to people who say, “Where was God when the 6 million died?”  Actually, it is becoming more and more obvious that He was very much at work, warning people in time for them to escape before the Nazis came to power.  The problem was, most chose to ignore the warnings. 

Well, I’ve got plenty of people who are on my case right now, not about Nazis, but about “Eat!  Eat!” Yikes!  I eat till I’m stuffed, but no matter how hard I try, I can’t seem to “put back” any fat on my bones! Susan gave us a great breakfast with more awesome conversation.  She’s busy doing what every older person should do–thinning out all her “stuff” so that she doesn’t need a whole house to keep it all in.  I finished writing, mended the knee of my pants, and then Susan  took us to town where we did the usual town chores plus more eating at the famous Etna drugstore fountain.   The place was full of PCT hikers, and we weren’t the only ones getting banana splits!  One girl said, “Wow–this is the BEST banana split I ever had in my whole life!”

There were a few more errands–I got a couple of new pairs of socks at the thrift store to replace ones that were wearing out, and found a jar of Nutella at the grocery store.  Then we went and got pizza!  I was so stuffed that I could hardly waddle, but my stomach gave me no problems, because I’d picked up some digestive enzymes at the drugstore, and they are really helping.  Susan took us all the way back up to Etna Summit–that was really going above and beyond–it’s a long way up to the summit from the town in the valley!  At the trailhead were a couple of motorcyclists who turned out to be from the town of Cotati, just north of where we live!  Wow!  After the usual round of taking pictures, and farewell hugs from Susan, we were back on the PCT, saying “Oregon, here we come!”

As soon as we started walking, I knew that I was feeling WAY better than I did on Saturday!  I can hike right on up any hill, my strength is coming back, and the hike is a joy.  The mountains are dark grey rocks that have amazing shapes, as if they were once molten, then suddenly frozen. We can see Mt. Shasta peeking over the ridgetops, and it’s definitely SOUTH of us now!  Wahoo!  On the horizon, I think I’m beginning to see Pilot Rock and maybe even Mt. McLoughlin.  It’s fun to look ahead and speculate about where Oregon is.  “Can we see it yet?” is a joke for every ridgetop on the trail here. 

The trail winds its way past many jagged, knobby mountain peaks, and traverses long, steep hillsides above deep canyons.  Wildflowers were continuing to be lovely, and the butterflies were everywhere– whole “clouds” of them, flying alongside us. The trail itself is very nice, though a bit rocky.  When we did this section in 2005, everything was covered with snow, so we didn’t even feel the rocks! 

Late in the day we spotted a nice camping spot in a grove of trees down below– we hurried down the switchbacks and lo and behold, there was Blue Butterfly, all set up in her tent.  She had a very nice PCT blog a couple of years ago, but said this time she’s just section hiking.  There was more room for us nearby, so we happily set up a cowboy camp by the pretty creek.

Walk with Aragorn to Isengard: In the foothills near Edoras

Sunrise light was beautiful on the mountains this morning, with glimpses of the Scott Valley far below. We hiked as quickly as we could, thinking “Etna Road ahead!” But the scenery was so gorgeous that I just had to stop and look at it every now and then. Bill was soon way out ahead of me, and then Ann came along and passed us both! Everybody was “on a roll” for Etna.

When we reached the road, we waited and waited, but no cars came along.   Our hope of making it to church was growing dim– till  a big gray SUV appeared from around the bend, going  west.  I said, “Bummer–there’s a car, but it’s going the wrong way.”  But all of a sudden, the SUV  swung across the road and roared into the parking lot where we were standing, as  the driver side window rolled down and a voice  shouted cheerfully, “Forsake not the assembling of yourselves together!” I shouted back, “Berean Bible Church!” “Hop in!” said the driver.  It was trail angel Thomas!  All of us were thrilled to see him.   He even offered everybody clean shirts to wear if they wanted to go to church with us. 

Turned out Thomas had given Babysteps and Flashback a ride earlier and they told him we hoped to go to church, so he came all the way back up and got us! Wow! On the ride down the mountain, all of us snacked on a strange variety of items that he had in the car.  Thruhikers will eat anything, in any combination!  Ann said she’d come to church with us and see what it was like.  Well, it was definitely “different.”  The regular pastor was away, and the sub had totally redone the seating arrangements.  Instead of the standard rows of chairs, there were tables.  The idea was you sit at a table, and you get to discuss things that were brought up during the sermon.  We loved it!   Before church started, I had boldly gone up to one of the church leaders and asked if there was anyone in the congregation we could stay with tonight.  He said, “Sure–I’ll introduce you after the service.” 

And that’s how it ended up that we were were taken home  by Susan Hoag, a wonderful lady who is a musician and had so much in common with us (she also lived in the San Francisco area) that it was amazing. God has blessed us with trail angels who know and love Him! Susan has fed us and blessed us and she says PCT hikers are very welcome to stay with her, especially fellow musicians (she’s got guitars, etc, available!)

Bill and Susan formed a conspiracy to get me to eat as much as possible.  It sure was nice to be able to have home cooking instead of trail food!  I am feeling so much better just being here.  A shower and clean clothes were a big help, too.  And books to read!   I miss books on the trail.  Some of the younger thruhikers do carry a book to read, but Bill and I hike all day till late, and there is no time for reading. 

Tomorrow we’ll get back to the trail, but tonight, it’s REST and EAT!

Walk with Aragorn to Isengard: Edoras

Oh dear!  I hung my “towel” up to dry last night after washing my feet before bedtime, and this morning discovered it had been chewed up by some critter.  The critter ALSO chewed on the bite valve of my Platypus!  Fortunately the bite valve damage wasn’t too bad, and everything still works fine.  But my poor towel!

We continued to enjoy the beautiful views of the Trinity Alps today– the highest part, where the snow is still deep, even in August! But finally we “turned the corner” and the trail headed north again through Russian Wilderness, which I call “the land of huge light grey boulders.” Right away, the PCT takes you across the face of a cliff, with the trail blasted out of the rock.

I was much braver about this “cliff walk” than I was in 2005! But a really great thing was we met Babysteps and Flashback, who immediately recognized us– “Wow, 3rd Monty and White Beard! We haven’t seen you since Mather Pass! We climbed the pass on those fantastic steps you chopped in the snow!” They asked us where was a good place to eat in Etna, and we told them “Bob’s Ranch House.” They said, “See you there for breakfast!” and we answered “Well, we’re hoping for church first.”   Off they went, and we hiked on until 8pm, hoping to get as close to Etna Road as we could.

We set up our camp near a bend in the trail, and even after dark, we were being passed by hikers with headlamps!  Everybody is doing “Etna or  Bust!” 

Walk with Aragorn to Isengard: Ford the Snowbourne and reach the road to Edoras