Since we camped last night near the RR tracks, I got to see some trains go by before I went to sleep, and one of them was an Amtrak train— on time! Amazing! We ate breakfast on the porch of Shelter Cove store with a great view of the lake. Good thing we are getting out of here today, though! Tomorrow is a big fishing derby, and the start of the “Where’s Waldo?” footrace on the PCT from here over to Waldo Lake area.

The PCT out of Shelter Cove is very pretty— it goes by the Rosary Lakes and on to some really fine views. The trail junction signs could use some help, though— they are very confusing. We ended up on a wrong trail at one of them— but a good thing, because it went to a lake, and Bill was almost out of water!

He is feeling better, but still not himself yet. The woods here are very pretty, but the mosquitoes swarm you the moment you stop. We hiked through a forest fire zone that in 2005 was an awful mess to get through. Now the trail is cleared, so it was easy going. We are camped by Riffle Lake in our net tent.

Walk with Aragorn to Minas Tirith: In green meadows crossing many streams

It was cold last night after the storm! Brrr! But this morning was clear and we quickly headed along the PCT after getting one last photo of beautiful Crater Lake. It’s downhill all the way for miles, through “Oregon Desert” of pumice-y dirt and trees. Many trees have strange lumps and swellings on their trunks. I wondered why.

We met a section hiker who is quitting because of blisters. He said his feet are raw. Bill advised that his shoes are probably too small. We walked on, eager to reach Mt. Thielsen, a trail section we missed in 2005 because of snow. (We went a different way.) Mt. Thielsen did not disappoint us! We got to hike right next to it and admire its multi-coloured knarly, twisted strata and very pointed top.

And what a relief after 26 dry miles to reach cascading Thielsen Creek! Then it was on through forest on very tired feet (getting used to new shoes that we got from our box at Mazama) before camping in the woods with our usual buddies, the mosquitoes.

Walk with Aragorn to Minas Tirith: On Ford of Isen road heading east toward Edoras

Well, the crickets sang a great lullaby last night! I slept like a log. It was so warm at 5:30am that we needed no jackets as we began the hike into Sky Lakes Wilderness. Last time, we went the lake route– this time we stayed with the PCT. For some time it was just forest and no views. We fended off a horde of mosquitoes to get water at Christi’s Spring, and a bit after that, the climbing and views really got going.

We had Klamath Lake to the south, a glorious blue “sea” and to the north, knarly peaks such as Devil’s Peak. The trail was often very rocky. I have noticed that the rocks have their own “music” as you walk over them. Shale goes “clinkety-clinkety.” Pumice goes “crunch, crunch” and regular rocks go “clunk, clunk.”

Towards the end of today, we spent quite a while going through a barren, blackened, ashy mess of a fire zone. It was a relief to be back in green forest in time to camp. Enthusiastic mosquitoes were waiting for us, so up went the net tent!

Walk with Aragorn to Minas Tirith:  Pippin uses the Palantir. Turn south.

Well, we had quite a lightning show and thunder concert last night– plus rain! Wow! We haven’t had rain since Campo and the San Felipe hills. In the morning, all we did was walk through viewless forest, but on very nice trail. Bill’s math says we have to do 30 miles a day to reach Cascade Locks on time, so we are really chugging down the trail.

Lunchtime was wonderful– we went to the Brown Shelter where there is a real old-fashioned hand pump for delicious cold spring water and fun conversation with a long-section hiker. From there, we soon were on the “lava walk” through miles of lava interspersed with forest. The trail through the lava is very well-done and not hard to walk on.

We started getting views of grey Mt. McLoughlin, and were well up its shoulder before making camp, where the mosquitoes and crickets were both “singing.” I prefer the crickets!

Walk with Aragorn to Minas Tirith:  Reach Isengard, continue on highway

Last night, after lots of good food in Seiad and a long hot climb up the hill, I was so tired that I think I fell asleep as soon as I put my head down! This morning was chilly and very windy. I wore my raingear till breakfast at 7am. We reached Cook & Green Pass, where a sweet older couple were camped, then on to what I call the “rollercoaster hills,” where the PCT makes a mini-AT and goes up and down, too.

Had a lovely lunch break in a shady grove by Bearground Spring, where we met another thruhiker who asked, “What is that big pointed snowy mountain over there?” When I told her “Shasta” she groaned, “Oh no, still Shasta?” ‘Fraid so! By 7pm, we reached the Oregon border– a bunch of hikers were there, so we got our picture together, signed the register and took off–the mosquitoes were pretty bad. We put in a couple more miles before making camp on a dry ridge.

Walk with Aragorn to Isengard: Dark clouds from the East begin to overcast the days