Monday, May 2 This is one epic trail!
May 2nd, 2016SUMMARY: A 2013 thruhiker said, “Epic! Everything about the CDT is epic!” I would agree. So far it has been WAY harder than the PCT, but walking through the desert today and looking at the epic scenery–vast and sort of alien but also beautiful–wow! And it was way easier today to find our way, so we made good miles. Having cooler weather till late afternoon helped, too. We made a cowboy camp again, and a pack of coyotes went by in the night.
DETAILS: Brrrrr, it was COLD this morning, and we weren’t 100% sure where the trail was, so we decided to eat breakfast before we started hiking.
It didn’t take too long, though, before we were sure of our route again, and from that point on, it was mostly easy to find and follow the trail. There were only four times when we were perplexed and wrassling with our maps trying to figure out “Which way now?” In all four cases, we did figure it out and didn’t have to turn on the Guthook app.
It is amazing to be out here, walking through miles of total desert, yet safe and secure, with our packs full of water and food. Most of the day there was no “trail”, and we were just following a line of posts, which turned out to be quite unpredictable–some were ridiculously easy to spot and some very difficult. There were also a number of PUDs (Pointless Ups & Downs) over very rough rocky hills. The one “plus” with that was looking at the geology–there are a lot of obviously volcanic features here in the desert. Sometimes we were walking on pumice, and sometimes on sand.
A 2013 thruhiker said, “Epic! Everything about the CDT is epic!” I would agree. So far it has been way harder than the PCT, but walking through the desert today and looking at the epic scenery—vast and sort of alien, but also beautiful, was actually enjoyable.
We finally crossed the actual Continental Divide for the first time and nearby was a little oasis of green grass and shady trees with an old tire as a water trough—it looked like a fishpond with no fish. We stopped for lunch at the bear box water cache, and I was glad to be able to set up our little Esbit stove out of the wind. It’s been hard to do our usual hot lunch, because around 11:00 am, the wind begins to blow and by noon, it’s really blowing. The Esbit setup does not work well in the wind. While we were there, we met Juan (who keeps the caches stocked with water) and he told us that the guy who got lost on his first day hiking the CDT is not the only hiker who had to be rescued after the first day—a couple of years ago there was an older man who got confused and wandered off the trail. When he didn’t show up in Lordsburg, a search began, and they found him, lost and dehydrated and hungry, but otherwise OK. Fixit and I were amazed, because we had been able to follow the route just fine on that first day.
The afternoon was quite warm, and it included our first “squiggle” under a barbed wire fence (the first of many such squiggles!) At the end of the day, we just cowboy camped again, and were still settling in, when along came Zippy Morocco, eating his dinner as he hiked. Turns out he started only yesterday!! But he is very fast, and he told us he skipped all the gullies and just walked along the road and took shortcuts wherever possible. We thought, “Well, it took awhile, but we are glad we toughed it out.” Zippy took off–we won’t see him again, I am sure.
Stummy and Masshole are now ahead of us, too. They are determined to reach Lordsburg by tomorrow night. I am not sure if we will make it that far. If this were the PCT, and regular trail, no problem–but constantly hunting for posts and spending a lot of time trying to figure things out…that’s rough. I still can’t “embrace the brutality.” All I can do is take a deep breath and keep going.
But it is a beautiful, quiet evening in the desert. Very quiet. Here in the bootheel of New Mexico, there are no airplanes going over, no roads full of cars, no trains going by. Just a vast sky with a zillion stars. A pack of coyotes went by, talking to each other in their weird voices, but other than that it was just quiet.





And it’s a good thing there are TWO of us looking for CDT marker posts. It was really hard to find them, since many have fallen over. (Fixit was able to live up to his name and fix some of those fallen posts) We also sort of ended up taking turns spotting them. Sometimes it would be me saying, “There it is!” and sometimes it would be Fixit.


SUMMARY: Today was the beginning of the real CDT adventure! We piled into a very tough vehicle for the 3 1/2 hour ride to the official start of the trail at Crazy Cook monument. Wheeeeeew, that was one rough ride! We were being jostled and tossed about, though the driver did his best to go slowly over the really bad spots in the road. We finally made it, took pictures, and we were off! The morning and early afternoon were easy–just follow clear signs and posts. Wow, the scenery was great, too–classic desert mountains. But the rest of the afternoon was endless rocky gullywalking. We finally made it to the first water cache and cowboy camped near the “trail” which is now simply little brown plastic posts placed on ridges, so we can stand at one post, spot the next and walk over to it, dodging the cactus and climbing in and out of gullies. No more trail! Oh well. It’s a beautiful night, and we are cowboy camped, looking up at the stars!
SUMMARY: It was a cloudy but warm morning at 6:30 am–we were walking to the Greyhound station with jets rumbling overhead, when for just a minute, a bit of rainbow appeared ahead of us–the Bible signal for “God keeps His promises.” We cheered and hurried on. The Greyhound ride to Lordsburg was like riding through the sea, where the “water” was sagebrush and the mountains were” islands.” Now we’re at the EconoLodge, and we’ve already met 2 hikers who will be with us on the shuttle tomorrow!
We arrived in Lordsburg in time for lunch at McDonald’s and walked to the Econo Lodge in windy and cool weather. We got some stuff to eat on the trail at the at the gas station next door to the Lodge, but at the same time we were mourning the fact that the Kranberry’s restaurant across the street was closed. Kranberry’s has been feeding CDT hikers for a long time, but turns out they had a fire and will not reopen for some time. Bummer.
SUMMARY: The clocks all failed us this morning–Fixit’s watch alarm didn’t go off and the motel clock was wrong, but the end result was good–no L.A. freeway gridlock!
In Phoenix, we found our motel, left our packs in the room, and drove first to locate Greyhound, then to rental car return—long lines of cars. Walked back—15 minutes to Greyhound, where we discovered their schedule changed two months ago, so the time on our tickets was wrong. Good thing we stopped at the station! Our bus leaves an hour earlier than what the ticket says.
It’s a cold, cloudy morning with rain in the forecast, and we are finishing up all the last details for heading out tonight for the first stage of a summer on the CDT. Most of today will not be CDT stuff, though–it will be getting ready for our Awana Club Awards Night. There are decorations to put up, lots of ribbons and trophies to set out, and programs to copy and fold. It’s fun to see the kids’ faces when they come in and see the big display, and to enjoy the applause as they come up to get their awards!
Most people the age of Fixit and I are limping around with knee replacements, hip replacements, multiple prescriptions for blood pressure, cholesterol, etc, and they look at Fixit and I as if we were weird exotic animals in the zoo. They see us putting on 20 lb. packs and heading out for a day of hiking in rain or mud or heat or fog or whatever and they shake their heads and say, “You’re just lucky,” or “I wish I had knees like you–you got the good genes” and other similar remarks.
It’s been discovered that basically, we humans are engineered to WALK. It’s our most efficient and comfortable activity. Running trashes your knees, and sitting trashes a lot of other stuff, but walking makes your whole body happy. So what could be better than a really long walk–like the CDT?? A walk where you can throw away the car keys and just walk as far as you want and see new things every day and meet new people and have new adventures–there’s nothing better!
Well, the countdown is seriously happening–we did our last “big” training hike yesterday, out at Point Reyes National Seashore, on one of our favorite 20-plus mile loop hikes. The route we took has everything we want–big hills, awesome mountain and ocean views, and enough uncomfortableness to make it a reasonable replica of what we figure will be the real deal on the CDT.
The Horse Camp was empty–no horse people there yet–we joined up with the Olema Valley trail, and finally began climbing the first big hill, up and up till we reached the Bolema Trail at the top of the first ridge. From there we switched to the Lake Ranch Trail, which passes a lot of interesting territory (including some bogs and swamps) high up on the mountain, before switchbacking down through a lot more long wet grass with the added challenge of large stinging nettles and poison oak. Sometimes I felt like I was running a gauntlet, trying to avoid the nettles and the oak. Usually along here we get our first wonderful views of the ocean, but no luck there–it was gray and obscure, since we were actually IN a cloud. The forest around us looked mysterious, misty and wonderful.
Four hours later, we had come down to the Coast Trail, and one of our favorite lunch spots under a huge old Douglas Fir tree that overlooks a large lily pond. When I sit there leaning on the massive old trunk, with long branches drooping almost to the ground around us, I feel like a chick under its mother’s wings. And another bonus–underneath a Douglas Fir, the ground is dry, even if it’s rainy. And it was rainy–misty rain that didn’t even make raindrop ripples on the pond.
After lunch, we followed the Coast Trail past large, dark, beautiful Bass Lake to the Ocean Lake Loop trail and headed along there for ocean views and more lakes. Finally we reached Wildcat Camp and another big hill climb with views (and often wildlife sightings). The trail wanders through dark forests and sunny meadows, on rough trail and smooth, before reaching its final descent to the clifftops right above the ocean. (Yesterday, somewhere along there, both Fixit and I picked up some ticks, which we had to deal with later. ) The hike along the clifftops is wonderful–wildlflowers! Waves breaking on rocks! Fishing boats offshore! Finally we made the turn for home onto the Bear Valley Trail and followed creeks up the wooded, ferny valley to the ridgetop, then down the other side.
It made for 8 hours of awesome hiking, with only a lunch break. We didn’t follow our PCT/CDT routine of stopping every 2- 2 1/2 hours for a snack–just kept walking. So when we got back to the car, we were pretty tired! We also discovered that we’d picked up some ticks–they were crawling on my pants (but my gaiters kept me out of trouble). Once we got home, we did a thorough “tick check” before taking showers and I found two ticks crawling on Fixit and one teeny tiny one crawling on me. But crawling was all they were able to do–we got rid of them, pronto! Oh well, my motto this time of year is, “When the grass is green, the ticks are seen”. As long as they don’t “bite in”, we’re fine!







