Altitude
Saturday, April 16th, 2016Fixit and I were looking at the Postholer chart of snow levels in Colorado–appears it was a more or less average year up there on the Divide. And it isn’t just the snow that concerns us a bit (like “should we mail ourselves some snowshoes??”) We were also thinking about the ALTITUDE. Being 76 and 68 years old means that like it or not, we DO have to think about altitude and how it will affect us.
When we did the PCT in 2005 and 2010, we happily hiked over Forester Pass and all the other high passes with nothing more than extra huffing and puffing. The altitude was not a problem. Then for the next 2 years, we climbed Whitney every year and Fixit did the whole John Muir Trail, again with nothing worse than huff ‘n puff.
But in 2013, all that changed. We were doing our annual “climb Whitney/do the JMT”. As usual, we parked our car at Horseshoe Meadows, hiked up to Cottonwood Pass, camped along the way, and the next day reached our “base camp” on the next “level” down from Guitar Lake. (The reason we use that location for base camp is that it’s outside the “no poop zone” where you are required to carry a wag bag. If you camp at Guitar Lake, you’d better not be digging catholes, or you are BAD!!) At dinnertime that night (no cook, of course–we don’t like bears visiting at night) we found we just were not hungry. Strange. Even stranger, all during that night, though I was lying down, I found my heart was pounding as if I’d just climbed a steep hill. It was weird and I worried a bit about “what is happening to me?”
Next morning, dark and early at 5:00 am, we got up to eat breakfast and start the Whitney climb. To our surprise, neither of us could face eating anything. I managed to force myself to eat a bit, but had to choke it down. We packed up camp, left our packs hidden in a group of stunted trees, and began heading up. Fixit of course was soon far ahead of me. The higher I went, the sicker I felt. Pretty soon I thought I was going to “lose my cookies” and had to stop and sit by the trail, fighting against the nausea. I knew then what was going on. “Altitude sickness! This totally sucks!” But I did not have a headache or any really scary symptoms so I was determined to push on, and I did, all the way to the top, but way more slowly due to having to stop every now and then from feeling so nauseous. I met Fixit as he came down, and he was looking a bit green, too, but determined to begin his journey to Yosemite Valley on the JMT. At the top of Whitney, I felt so sick that all I could do was sign the register, look around a bit, and head down.
On the hike back to our car, though I slowly felt a bit better, I still basically couldn’t eat. But when I reached Cottonwood Pass and the turn down to Horseshoe Meadows, the magic began. As I went down, down the switchbacks, I felt better and better. When I reached the flatlands of the Meadows, the nausea was totally gone and I was hungry! What a wonderful feeling! And at the trailhead, TRAIL MAGIC!! A group of PCT thruhikers were there–they had just come from a zero in Lone Pine and were having a little picnic before heading back up to the PCT. I yelled, “Hey, hikertrash! How’s it going?” and ended up having a beer and sharing trail tales with them.
So….the CDT in Colorado spends a lot of time at altitude. Serious altitude. Fixit and I are wondering how it’s going to work out. We have solved our Mt. Whitney altitude problem by taking 3 extra days of just resting at around 11,000 plus feet, drinking lots of water and eating lots of carbs before continuing on. But on the CDT, what will we do? Our tentative plan at this point is to hang out at Cumbres Pass for at least a couple of days. That’s up pretty high, and we’d have the fun of watching trains go by. I am a total sucker for trains–love them! On the PCT, I was in heaven at Cajon Pass, with all the trains! Anyway, we will see how we feel. I’ve learned my own “early warning system” for altitude sickness–heart pounding even when I’m resting, and not feeling hungry when I should be hungry.
Hopefully all will be OK, and if we really start feeling altitude sickness, the cure is so easy–just head downhill!