SUMMARY:  We packed up by headlamp this morning, determined to do the 24 miles to the road, and get to the Grant Village backcountry permit office before they closed at 4:30pm. The first 8 miles, we were on the Snake River trail, through burned forest where only smaller plants had regrown. (Tough going with trek poles!). The second 8 miles was the Heart Lake Trail, which was miles of forest regrowing after a fire, but the poor young trees were so crowded that none of them were doing well.

Heart Lake was awesome! It had a real beach. If we were not making a run for the road, I would have stopped right there. Then the last 8 miles—a “hot spring trail”—lots of hot springs, all different colors. We hitched a ride to Grant Village and were in the backcountry office at 4:20, only to be told, “We can’t issue permits after 4pm. Come back tomorrow.” Groan! So we got food, and camped at the backpacker campsite.

DETAILS:  We got up a bit before 5 am, in the dark and got dressed/packed up by headlamp.  It was very cold–I could see my breath, and there was frost on the plants as we started hiking at 5:45, when there was barely enough light to see the trail.   Our goal was to make it to the Grant Village backcountry office (24 trail miles plus hitching a ride) before they close at 4:30.  Fixit is way faster than I am,  and I was sure he could do it, but for me, I would have to “push it” all day.

The 24 miles actually divided very nicely into three 8-mile segments.  The first one took us along the Snake River Trail.   Most of the time we were up high above the river, and the trail was mostly pretty level, but it was also very rocky and we were going through a forest fire zone where the regrowing plants hung heavily over the trail, making it tough going (for me).  I had prayed and asked God to give me the strength to do well at the hiking today, and I felt that I did fine going through all those rocks and plants.  We stopped for breakfast at 7:30, when the sun finally made it down into the river canyon.

By Snickers time (9:45) we had finished the first 8 miles and started on Leg #2–the Heart Lake Trail.  This time, it was 8 miles of walking through a “regrowing” forest of small trees, just the same as we see back home when we hike on Mt. Vision in the Point Reyes Nat’l Seashore.  The little trees are the regrowth after the awful fires in Yellowstone several years ago.  But just like the ones on Mt. Vision (also regrowth after an awful forest fire), the little trees are insanely crowded together, and none of them are doing well. It’s a very sad sight.

Sometimes the trail went through a meadow with bushes, where I did my best to whoop and holler in case there were any grizz around.  Then we’d be back in the forest again, where the little trees were packed so tightly together that I don’t think a grizz could squeeze between them.

After so many miles of no views, it was wonderful to reach Heart Lake!  Wow!  It has a real BEACH!  And the CDT trail actually follows the beach!  If we were not trying to make it to the backcountry office (and Canada!) I seriously would have just stopped right there and said, “This is it!  We camp here!”  A bunch of Boy Scouts were at the beach, and we spent a few minutes telling them about what we were doing.  They were amazed and wanted to take a picture with us.  But we had one more 8-mile leg ahead of us, which I would call “The Hot Springs Trail.”  We passed lots of hot springs, all different colors, and even though it was a very warm day, they were steaming.  Again, if we had not been in a hurry, I would love to have spent more time looking at them!

Part of this last 8 miles included a really big climb, and it was such a warm/hot afternoon that I just ran out of steam before the end of it.  I had been pushing myself hard all day, and trying to do a long hill with no shade in the heat, was just too much.  I finally said, “Fixit, you’d better just head for the road and try to hitch into Grant Village.  I don’t think I can make it in time.  Wait for me at the backcountry office.”

So Fixit took off, and I plodded on.  But when I finally reached the road, he was still there, trying to hitch a ride.  The problem is, he’s not very good at hitching–when we need to do that, it’s me who gets us a ride.  So I took over, and though many cars went by (it is a busy road), after 15 minutes we got a ride from a sweet young Asian couple, who actually turned around in order to help us out!   Wonderful!  They dropped us off right by the backcountry office, and we were walking in the door at 4:20.

But oh bummer….the nice older couple who run the office told us very sadly that they were not allowed to issue any permits after 4:00, even though they are open till 4:30.  They thought that rule was stupid, but they have to obey it.  “Go get a campsite,” they said, “and come back in the morning.”  Bummer!   We had hoped to get our permits and hitch straight back to the CDT.  And there was another complication, too.  Our next resupply is at Old Faithful Village, and now by the time we get there, it will be Sunday, and the post office will be closed.  So that means TOMORROW we have to get to Old Faithful Village and get our box.  Yikes!

So we went over to the information office and asked about getting a bus from Grant Village to Old Faithful Village.  Turns out there are no busses.  Oh no!  That means hitching, and technically we aren’t supposed to be hitching a ride in the park (though we did today).  But the lady at the info desk said, “The college kids who work here in the park hitch rides all the time.  You’ll need a cardboard sign…if you can find some cardboard, I’ll lend you my Sharpie pen to write with.”

So we went to find some food and some cardboard.  First we stopped at the store for cold drinks and ice cream, then we went to the Grill for burgers & fries.  I asked the lady at the Grill for some cardboard, then we went back to the info desk, borrowed the Sharpie, and I made a sign.  Then we walked over to the campground, got a spot at the biker/hiker campsite and got to meet 3 bikers who are riding across the USA.  They plan to finish in Astoria.  It was fun talking to them.  Actually, in the campground there were several “adventure tour” groups who all seem to be having a great time of it.  They get to hike, bike, canoe, and all sorts of stuff.

Tomorrow’s logistics look awfully tricky–I prayed that everything would work out.  It is weird to be in a car campground–so much noise and smells.  It will be great to be back on trail (I hope!!) by tomorrow night.