SUMMARY:  We woke to skies that were gray with smoke and as the sun rose, it was an orange ball in the sky. Breakfast was wonderful—all the Chalmer House guests sit at the big dining room table and enjoy great food and conversation. We had to tear ourselves away for “chore time”.

My job was counting food to see what we had, then get more if needed, and visit the ranger station to learn all I could about fire closures on the CDT. The rangers were great at explaining the closures, and hopeful that the trail will reopen in a day or two.

Meanwhile, Bill’s job was to get us a GPS and load it with waypoints. Hooray—he got one! After checking out of Chalmer’s, we went off and got a cell phone, had lunch, and hitched 2 rides to the trailhead, ready to get back to the CDT. Despite the very smoky conditions, there were plenty of hikers! The CDT access trail so far is just beautiful—lots of lakes of all sizes, meadows, dramatic cliffs and canyons, and (very indistinct with so much smoke) the impressive peaks of the Wind River Mountains.

We are camped at 10,000 feet, and should be back on the CDT early tomorrow.

DETAILS:   We were so tired last night that we just collapsed, and I didn’t write anything in my journal.  So this morning I lazed about in bed and did last night’s journalling before we got up and went downstairs for the amazing Chalmer House breakfast.  Wow!  They actually serve in “courses”–first yogurt & fruit & granola, then muffins, pancakes and sausages.  Coffee and juice in abundance, too!  We all sat around the big dining room table and it was great to meet the other guests–sort of like joining a large family!  We also learned about Chalmer House–it’s the oldest continually operating hotel/B & B in Wyoming!   The downstairs part is built of logs–the upstairs is frame, and it was added later.  One of the ladies even insisted on giving us her phone number in case we needed a ride.

Then it was chore time.  Fixit headed out to find a GPS, and I counted our food–we need enough for 4 days.  I was also concerned about reports we’ve been hearing about “the CDT is closed”, so I went to the ranger station to find out.  The rangers were very helpful–they showed me the exact location of the fire and said the trail should reopen in a day or two, since the fire is burning AWAY from it.  They said there would be signs posted on the trail itself with the latest info, once we get closer to where the fire is.  On the way back to Chalmers, I stopped and got some more food, and had 45 minutes left before checkout time to get everything loaded into the packs and ready to go.

Meanwhile, Fixit had found the sporting goods store in Pinedale and bought a Garmin like the one Elusive had.  He had the guy at the store load it with waypoints for Bear Survey and for Ley maps.  And it clips onto his pack shoulder strap with a carabiner, so it’s quick and easy to get at.  We left Chalmers and found a cell phone place, got a cell phone and set up service for it.  We called our friend who mails our resupply packages, to let him know our new phone number, and after lunch, we started trying to hitch a ride to the CDT access trail.  It wasn’t easy at first, but finally a local rancher spotted us and gave us a ride partway up, as far as a ski resort (I got to share the back seat with his horse’s saddle!).  Then a sweet older couple in an RV gave us a ride the rest of the way to Elkhart Park trailhead.

Elkhart Park is HUGE!   And it is BUSY!   There were hikers and cars everywhere!  I talked to 3 young guys and was able to look at their maps to familarize myself with the trail back to the CDT.  Fixit likes to just “wing it” and have adventures where you don’t know what’s going to happen, but if I have a chance, I like to find out as much as I can, first!

So at last we were headed back to the trail, “armed” with a GPS.  The access trail is very nice, and also very busy–we met lots of hikers and backpackers.  When we stopped for a Snickers break, along came Nips, so we filled him in on what to expect at the trailhead and in Pinedale, and about the fire closure.  He is very tired, and was looking forward to being in town for a rest.  He said that Squirrel and Early Bird were in Pinedale yesterday, and headed out this morning.

Along the way, the air was very smoky, and that obscured the big views, but the closeup scenery was wonderful–many lakes of all sizes, dramatic canyons, huge rocks and cliffs, green forests….and best of all, no worries about losing the trail!  If only this could last….but alas, J. Ley and others warn that up ahead, the CDT is hard to follow.  Well, we have a Garmin…hopefully we’ll make it through!   Tonight we have a very nice campsite in the trees.  Tomorrow we will be entering “grizz country”  (grizzly bear).  Yikes!