SUMMARY:  We met a lot of people going the other way on the trail today:  first a huge pack of runners training for the Leadville 100, then a number of Colorado Trail hikers. All of them were feeling overwhelmed by the huge amount of up and down on the trail. No kidding! We had some killer long uphills today that left us worn out.

The compensation was gorgeous views up top and even pretty lakes (with dayhikers). I am really having trouble with the uphills—the ‘high altitude cough’ that thruhikers often deal with is getting worse. In spite of rocky trail and killer uphills, we got 19 miles done, which is pathetic compared with our usual 25 miles. We did get to pass by the HQ where the 10th Mountain Division trained in World War II. We are grateful to all those guys!

DETAILS:  We headed out up (of course) the trail bright and early this morning, determined to somehow get more miles done.  This trail has been so hard, and it feels so weird to us, because we’re used to knocking out at least 25 miles a day on the PCT with no problem.  But with all the long, steep, rocky uphills and downhills, plus the “cruising altitude” of 10,000- 12,000 feet, both Fixit and I are having a hard time.  Today, the only way I made it up the many hard climbs was to “sing” in my head (not out loud–I was too busy huffing ‘n puffing)–especially the old song, “Leaning on the Everlasting Arms”.  And I did a lot of coughing, which was annoying.  It’s the “Colorado Cough”–even the younger thruhikers have to deal with it.

Most of the time today, the trail was in forest, but there were occasional views.  All the snowmelt creeks were running, so one nice thing was that we didn’t have to carry a ton of water.  I tried my best to drink lots and not get dehydrated, but it was hard, with all the uphills.  We did enjoy looking at the many different ways that had been set up for hikers to get across all the creeks, though–bridges, logs and stepping stones.  Thanks to whoever put those in!

In the morning, we met a huge group of trail runners, training for the Leadville 100.  Well, I think there must have been at least 100 of THEM!  But we ended up having to stop and get off the trail for them a lot, which slowed us down.  The runners were all very friendly and cheerful.  I sure do admire them–I could never RUN this trail–it’s hard enough just walking, even with trek poles to help.  And the trail is hardly ever smooth–there are always rocks and roots, so I feel like I can never just freely WALK–I’m always stepping and picking my way along.

One of our big climbs of the day was coming out of Turquoise Lake, but the reward was reaching a magnificent scenic area with huge snowy mountains and many more lakes (I thought that Galena Lake was the prettiest).  We stopped there for lunch and were in awe of the views, but we were so exhausted that all we wanted to do was collapse.  I had to force myself to eat.  Coming down again, oh joy–back to snow all over the trail!  But we were able to find our way, and there was only one big snowfield that gave us trouble because it covered a lot of switchbacks.

Finally we dropped down low enough to be out of the snow, and back into what I call a “meadow & creek zone.”  One of the creeks had BIG trout in it, lazily swimming around.  If we had a net (no need for hook & line) we could have caught one!  We were amused by the fact that this whole area is called “Holy Cross Wilderness”, and it includes “St. Kevin’s Gulch”.  We like the names, but wondered how in this world of uptight, easily offended atheists, that those names still have survived.  Back when I was not a Christian, I was never “offended” or upset by religious people–I felt sorry for them and looked down on them, and thought they were pathetic.  Today’s atheists are so uptight and defensive and insecure.

Finally it was 5:30 and we stopped for dinner, again so exhausted that we basically just collapsed.  Only a couple of minutes after we’d started hiking again, lo and behold–a PORCH SWING and comfortable bench were set up right off the trail.  Oh man, if we’d just kept going a little bit farther before we stopped….oh well.   Very late in the day, we reached Tennessee Pass, which was HQ and training center during World War II for the 10th Mountain Division.  If we’d had more time and were not so tired, I would love to have explored the area.  In any case, we sure are grateful to the brave guys who trained here.

But we pushed on for a little bit farther, found a flat place in the woods near the trail, and collapsed.  It’s clouding up again and the thunder is rumbling off to the north, but woo-hoo!   When I added up our miles, we got 19!  Pathetic by our old standards, but OK by our new ones.