Mon. Sept. 5       Miles today: 9.5       Total so far: 2,008.5         End Sierras Section J     Echo Lake

We were very quick to load up our packs and get on the trail this morning!  Early on, we made quick progress along a relatively easy trail through thriving forests and bright green meadows, silver with frost in the low spots.  Views of Lake Tahoe got better and better.  Then bummer, the trail went from “nice downhill dirt” to rotten rocks.  Instead of zipping along to Echo Lake, I was slowly picking my way down the rocks. GRRR!  We did come to a section where a volunteer trail crew had been hard at work.  Much better!  The crew were lined up for breakfast when we went by their “base camp”.  Oh man, bacon, eggs…did it ever smell good! 

Finally we reached busy Highway 50 and scurried across, only to face a stiff climb up to the top of the hill and down to the Echo Lake Resort. The post office was still open, our resupply box was waiting for us, and we ate an early lunch (10 am) of big roast beef sandwiches, ice cream, etc.  A call to trail angel “Ziggy” of the South Shore Inn in South Lake Tahoe assured us that he had room for us, but couldn’t pick us up till 5:00 pm.  We said we’d hitch a ride down, and he promised us a ride back to the trail.  So we grabbed our packs, strolled up the resort exit road to what looked like a good hitch-hike spot, and tried flagging down a ride.  But the problem was, everybody was headed HOME for points to the west–nobody was going to Lake Tahoe!

I was starting to be a bit concerned, when whom should we see but the three older backpackers we’d been leapfrogging with!  They offered us a ride, and we were thrilled!  I got a picture of one of their very unique backpacks.  It turned out that one of them really wanted to meet the famous Ziggy of South Shore Inn.  So not only did we get a ride down the mountain, but were taken right to the Inn door.  There was Ziggy himself, very warm and welcoming.  The Inn turned out to be very comfortable, and close to everything.  We washed ourselves and our clothes, sorted through our packs, took out everything we felt we didn’t need anymore, and put those things in the now-empty bear cans to mail home.

Then it was time to EAT.  We went to a buffet and totally pigged out, before going back to rest and make phone calls.  Oh yes, we also did check out the nearby shopping center to see the resources there, and try to find trek poles for Bill at the sports store.  No luck–they only had ski poles.  We decided to try some other places tomorrow, since we are taking a BADLY need “zero day.”  It was wonderful to return to the Inn and collapse on a nice, soft, comfortable bed.  We both slept like logs.

Sun. Sept. 4         Miles today: 25.1          Total so far: 1,999        Sierras Section J

We were eager to go this morning, wanting to “finish up” as many of the miles to Echo Lake as we could.  We both have really sore feet (due to our shoes being totally thrashed by High Sierra rocks) and we REALLY need a rest!  Our “beacon mountain” for some time was an impressive reddish volcanic dome that stood high above the rest.  This morning FELT like we spent all our time going up, winding among granite boulders in the forest.  Not much by way of views, but we did come across some of the largest shelf fungi I have ever seen.  Wow!  They were very colorful.  And that’s not all.  It seemed like overnight, many of the plants were turning fall colors–yellow was common–and this brightened the dull pumice slopes, but worried us–can we make it to Oregon before the first fall/winter storm?  We are trying hard, but our feet are very tired and sore. Motrin helps, but we still have hundreds of miles to go.

This morning we passed high above pretty Blue Lake, with its campers and boaters.  It looked nice down by the lake, but where we were up on the ridge, the wind was fierce, making us walk like drunken sailors!  Finally we got down out of the gusts to quiet Lost Lake where we loaded up on water and enjoyed the antics of people of the lake in their little inflatable boats.  (Playing “pirates” seemed to the favorite game!) Beyond the lake, we climbed back into a zone of pumice, clinkers and wind, but more pretty fall colors.  There was also a network of dirt roads, with lots of ATV’s buzzing around, raising big clouds of dust.  We lost the PCT in this maze, but found it again after some time of puzzling over maps, landmarks, etc.  and headed into rugged country, aiming at a large gray mountain, before the trail veered off for Carson Pass highway.

Nearing the Pass, we met Letterman, another SOBO, who warned us that Echo Lake store and PO would close for the season day after tomorrow!  Yikes!  We had a quick rest at Frog Lake, then followed the PCT to the highway.  I was just having Bill pose for a photo  op in front of the fine log cabin visitor center, when out rushed volunteer staff lady Dorothy.  “Are youPCT thruhikers?” she asked.  Well, she took over the photo op, so that BOTH Bill and I could be in the picture, then told us to come inside and sign the PCT register…and that the volunters keep a stash of fresh fruit for the thruhikers…would we like to have a canteloupe?  Oh, wow!  We squeezed the huge canteloupe into Bill’s pack next to his bear can.  (Note to all thruhikers–stop at Carson Pass and say hi to those volunteers–they LOVE thruhikers!)

Then we cheerfully followed the PCT up from the Pass, meeting many dayhikers “coming home.”  We got a nice view of the Carson Pass area.  Over the top of the hill we went, and down into lovely Meiss Meadow.  I half expected Ben Cartwright and his sons to come riding up, with the “Bonanza” theme song ringing on the wind.  If Ben had invited us to dinner at the Ponderosa tonight, I would have jumped at the chance to have “Hoss-size” portions of Hop Sing’s cooking!  Bill and I have been on pretty skimpy rations for a week in an effort to save on packweight.  Another feature of Meiss Meadow is  the beginning of the Truckee River, and we were amused to be able to cross it on steppingstones. 

A short time later, we passed an old cabin, barn and corral.  (Hmmm–maybe the original Cartwright homestead?)  Finally it was suppertime, and oh boy, time for the canteloupe!  Fabulous, fantastic!  We just cut it in half, tossed the seeds, and started chowing down, scooping it out with our little spoons.  While we were happily eating, some REAL cowboys with a posse of cowdogs went by, grinned and said, “Dinnertime, huh?”  After they left, we said, “Bet THEY’RE not going home to have canteloupe, peanut butter and crackers for dinner!”  After our wonderful supper (thankyou, thankyou, Carson Pass volunteers!) we passed Showers Lake, which had a backpacker tent under practically every tree.  Bill and I were amused, because we don’t even put up our tarp unless we feel it’s very important.  We prefer to “cowboy camp” under the stars.  But at the lake was also a large, happy, noisy group of younger Boy Scouts. They were having a grand time.  Go, Scouts!

We climbed on beyond the lake and began to get great views of Lake Tahoe.   By sundown, we found a level but HAAAARD ground campsite with a wonderful view and NO wind.  We made a plan to get up early and get to Echo Lake ASAP before the store closed!