Wed. Sept 7         Miles today: 21.5        Total so far: 2,030          Sierras Section K

Well, Bill’s watch battery died during the night, so there was no alarm to waken us at 5:20 am.  I had PLANNED to take one last shower and then we’d have a “feast” for breakfast at the nice table in our room at South Shore Inn, before reporting to Ziggy at 6:45 am for our ride back to the PCT.  Instead what we got was a call from Ziggy at 6:30 “Don’t forget–we leave in 15 minutes!”  Bill and I leaped frantically out of bed and it was a WILD scramble to get dressed, throw things in the packs and get out to the car.  So much for a peaceful breakfast and leisurely packup!

Ziggy was ready to go, and cheerfully drove us up to Echo Lake, telling “hiker stories.”  He loves PCT hikers–says we are like a big family.  His very first “hiker experience’ was 6 years ago, when he’d just taken over the motel, and a hiker called him from up at the lake to reserve a room. Ziggy agreed, but was very much taken aback when the hiker showed up bearded, dirty, and smelly, with ratty clothes and pack.  “Oh no, a homeless bum!” was Ziggy’s first reaction.  “What have I done?  But I promised him a room and I should keep my promise.”  A short time later, the hiker “bum” was clean, shaven, friendly and obviously well-educated.  He explained to Ziggy about PCT thruhikers, and Ziggy’s been taking good care of “us hikers” ever since.

At Echo Lake, Ziggy helped Bill get our packs out of his trunk and gave us each a big hug and “God bless you and keep you safe!”  So we blessed him back!  It was a wonderful start for the next part of our hike, even if things were a bit frantic earlier.  Off went Ziggy, and we sat down on a low stone wall to hurriedly eat (brrrr, shiver, shiver–it was a COLD morning!) our big breakfast.  Echo Lake is in a beautiful granite mountain setting, and the water is very clear.  A SOBO came by while we were eating and said “Hi!”  He was headed for Mexico.  When we were done, we walked across the dam and set off on the PCT around the lake, passing one cute cabin after another.  The only way to these cabins is by boat or trail, and each one is unique–fun to look at such a variety of architecture!  But the trail was VERY rough and rocky.  I can see why a lot of people use the water taxi rather than walking this stretch of PCT!  But my new shoes were GREAT–no problem with the rocks hurting my feet now.

Once past Echo Lake, the PCT passes one lake trail junction after another, and from what I could see of those lakes, they were just as pretty, though smaller.  There was even a cute lily pond lake right by the trail.  There are plenty of lakes for lots of backpackers!  Eventually we reached large Lake Aloha which is full of granite islands!  (An island for every hiker?  But how do you swim out with your pack??)  After Aloha, the trail turns east and heads down to another series of lakes.  We ate lunch at Susie Lake, while constantly fending off an incredibly nervy ground squirrel.  During lunch, I finally (duh!) noticed that my camera memory card was almost full.  I should have paid better attention to it–I could have gotten another card in South Lake Tahoe.  Now I’ll only be able to take a few more pictures, and this is such beautiful country!

After Susie Lake came a 2,000 foot climb up to 9,300 foot Dicks Pass.  Bill climbed up here before, a couple of years ago when we were camping at Tahoe.  The views from up top were awesome, well worth the climb and ROUGH trail.  (Yes-rocks, rocks, rocks!)  Then it was down the other side to MORE lovely lakes, where we met a number of dayhikers out from Emerald Bay.  They are all so clean and spiffy and smell strongly of soap and fabric softeners, etc.  I wondr what we smell like to them?  (Phew!)  Then the PCT went down, down, down–boy were we glad to stop for a supper of bagels, cheese and dried fruit!  Our knees were TIIIIIRED.  But we finished the descent to Phipps Creek (Creek?  Hah! More like chain-of-pudles!) and began the climb up to Peak 8235, a mountain that looks like it’s made of a huge pile of granite boulders.  All the trees were twisted and gnarly-looking.  The PCT wound and twisted, too, and with lots of boulders in the trail, it was a bit of an agility challenge!

But we found a nice comfortable campsite near the top, and Bill had fun writing some journal notes with his cool new pen that has a light inside it.  It looks very sci-fi, and he didn’t even need to borrow my headlamp!

Tues. Sept. 6           No miles today         Zero day at South Shore Lake Tahoe

After “sleeping in” till 7 am, we got up and walked down the road for a buffet breakfast.  Yum!  We were joking about how the buffets ought to have some sort of warning system–“Red alert!  Red alert!  Incoming thruhikers fresh from the High Sierras!”  so they would know to put out lots of food!  One of the places we passed had pictures of their food, and one of the menu items was a hamburger named after Bill! 

After breakfast,  Bill and I went on separate “errand trails.”  Bill went to look for trek poles and materials to do some pack repair, plus mail the bear cans home.  I went hunting for new shoes to replace the ones I’ve worn for over a thousand miles, which were beginning to fall apart.  They were in such bad shape that my feet were really getting beat up on the rocky trails we’ve being doing.   Unfortunately, the resupply box that never showed up in Tehachapi had contained a pair of new shoes, because I had planned to tackle the Sierras in nice new shoes, not the same ones I’d worn all through Oregon and Washington.  Oh well.  I tracked down a good sports store and started trying on shoes.  The folks in the store said they get a LOT of PCT hikers coming in to replace worn out gear!  No kidding!  I guess I became ANOTHER one of their statistics!   It turned out that they did not have any larger size womens’s shoes (I needed size 11), so I ended up having to buy a MEN’s shoe that would work.  Then I hunted up a grocery store to get a few more things for our food bags.  We don’t have such a long stretch till the next resupply, so we can afford a bit more food weight.

Shopping in South Lake Tahoe was sort of fun, though I don’t think I looked like a tourist!  The town is pretty, busy, and “touristy” but nice.  I finally went back to our nice peaceful room at the South Shore Inn to sort out all the food and load the food bags ready to be back on trail tomorrow.  Then I rested and did writing till Bill came back.  He’d mailed the bear cans, but had no luck finding anything else, other than finding a secondhand sweatshirt for me to tie around my waist instead of the now-ragged quilt stuffing I’d been using since Tehachapi.  I trimmed a lot of fabric off the sweatshirt so that it was just the right size and shape to “fatten me up” so I can cinch my pack tight and get the weight off my shoulders.

After a rest, we went back to the sports store to find Bill some new shoes.  Along the way, we met three SOBO’s walking along the main street, looking for the South Shore Inn.  We were happy to give them directions!  We’d met them before, up north.  Then it was buffet dinner time, and back to the Inn to do final preparations and rest.  Our feet feel better already in our new shoes, we are well-fed, and we’re ready to go on!  Ziggy said he’d call us early tomorrow morning when he was ready to take us up the hill and back to the trail.  He and his wife have only one car, and she needs it to go to work, so he can only use it early in the morning or after she gets back from work at night.