When we started hiking at first light this morning, we discovered we’d only been 1/4 mile from the South Fork Campground!  Oh well.  Bill’s feet hurt very badly, so he sat and rested  by the campground, while I ran around trying to figure out where the trail went next, since we had no proper map, only the notes from the sign back at “B-P Base Camp.”  It looked like the trail headed across the river, which was a moderately tricky ford.  We made it OK, but then discovered that on the other side, any semblance of a path just vanished in the chaparral.  Bummer.

So I left my pack with Bill, and while he rested some more, and dried his damp papers (still wet from when he fell in the creek yesterday), I spent almost 2 hours going up and down the riverbank and climbing around in the bushes trying to find the trail.  I got well scratched, bumped, and discouraged–and all this before I even had breakfast!  You can guess that I was asking the Lord “Please, PLEASE help me find the trail!”  When I was almost ready to give up and try some more after breakfast, I was looking around and up on the side of the canyon was a rock formation jutting out.  It is hard to explain, but as I looked at it,  it was like God said to me, “There is the trail.”  Then I REALLY looked hard, and right next to the rock formation–yes, there was something that looked like it might be trail.  I beat my way through the chaparral, scrambled over some rocks to climb up there, and hurrah!! The trail!  I followed it back down to the river, and turned out it crossed way upstream, far away from where we’d crossed earlier.  I scrambled back along the rocks by the river to reach Bill, very grateful to God for helping me. 

So now we could relax, filter some river water, and eat breakfast. 

I could even enjoy looking at wildflowers!  By 9:30 am we were on our way again,into Devil’s Punchbowl County Park.  But the trail got scarier and scarier.  A number of places were washed out.  One was so bad, I didn’t think I would make it across.  Even Bill was scared on that one!  What made it possible was hanging on to little tree roots that were sticking out.

But wow, the rocks were amazing!  And sometimes the trail supports actually did work! 

 Then we came to a fork in the trail, with no indication of which way to go.  We finally chose the left path (correctly!  Whew!) and a little while later met a young guy dayhiking, who helped us figure out where we were, and where to go next.  That was a relief, but the trail was very tough–lots of long, steep ups and downs.  Bill’s feet were in bad shape, and he had to stop periodically and try to tape them as best  he could. 

 

We stopped to cook a 1:00 pm dinner by the trail, of freezedried sweet n’ sour pork with peas, and I was just getting ready to “dish up” into our cups, when along came a guy on his mountain bike.  He saw the pot of food, grinned a big grin and called, “Yo, mama! I sure got here at the right time!”  He also advised us that we were on the right trail, but warned of many long steep miles ahead. He was right, but we were cheered by being able to actually SEE in the distance the pass we were headed for.  And the climb to the top was brightened by the beautiful rocks and wildflowers along the path. 

 When we finally reached the top, called “Burkhardt Saddle”, it was a time to rejoice and enjoy the views as we headed down, down, down to the PCT.  On this side of the mountain, the yuccas were blooming, and they were really pretty.

Many miles of downhill later, and we were finally back at the PCT.  After a bit of cheering, we charged ahead, and of course, the PCT welcomed us back with its usual behavior–having to cross the same creek 2 or 3 times!  Then we had a steep 1 1/2 mile climb to Cooper Creek Canyon Camp, where we finally had a very late cracker and cheese supper.  Weirdly, just as we were eating, a huge clamor of what sounded like whooping and hollering and cheering started up, just down the trail.  “Must be the guys who went the Baden-Powell route today,” I said.  “Boy, they must be glad to spot this campground!”  But no bedraggled hikers ever appeared.  The noise continued for several more minutes, then stopped.  What was it?  We had no clue–coyotes?

Bill and I were both exhausted, and the sleeping bags felt good in the cold, windy dark.  I was disappointed and worried, though, when I calculated our mileage.  We have 54 miles to go, and at this rate, we don’t have enough food.  We’ll have to go on short rations, starting tomorrow.  But though this was a tough day, we feel we have met its challenges, with God’s help.  It is a good feeling.  And I am especially grateful for His help in finding the trail this morning!